What kind of fabric is denim? (Should denim be raised as raw denim or should it be washed?)

No man can do without jeans. What inspired your love for jeans back then may have been a brand like Jeanswest that cannot be called jeans. However, with the resurgence of retro culture, jeans have become a cultural term. Made of denim, it is also the most retro item suitable for commuting.

Note: Many friends think that American retro is Ami khaki, but Ami khaki is actually American leisure.

Real love becomes “playing”. People who play denim divide jeans into two types, namely raw denim and washed. Today I will tell you what big names call raw denim and what is washed.

◆Raw denim

Raw denim is the original color of jeans, which refers to jeans that have not been artificially washed. Some raw cattle have not been depulped, so they are very hard. Even many heavy and high-ounce raw cattle can be called “iron pants”, so hard that they can stand up. There are also some raw cattle that have been washed and depulped before sale, and have become much softer, but there is no fading effect on the surface.

One of the important reasons why raw cows are highly praised is that most of the raw cow denim fabrics are narrow denim (selvedge) woven on old-fashioned shuttle looms, as the big guys have always said “Ears” are also the edges of old-fashioned looms, such as red ears.

▲Red ears: parallel red vertical lines in the picture on the right

The second is “fading”. Raw cows pay attention to “raising”. Natural plant-dyed denim (Indigo) will show different fading colors during the wearing process. It is also the birth process of a new pair of jeans, which is called “raising”.

◆ Advantages and Disadvantages of Raw Beef

If you want a tannin that is unique in the world, I strongly recommend choosing Raw Beef.

Raising cows actually means using your own body and time to shape and fade them, forming whiskers, honeycombs, wrinkles, etc. Even if they are worn out and worn out, they are still raised. A pair of raw cow denim pants will undergo years of wear and tear. What you wear and wear will imprint your own style and experience. A well-raised cow has impeccable comfort.

Of course the aurochs also has its shortcomings.

Because raw oxen is a heavy tannin, the ounce count is generally high and relatively thick. The initial wearing comfort is very poor, and the running-in period is relatively long. Secondly, the steps of raising cattle are complicated, each step requires a large amount of knowledge reserves, and research is time-consuming and laborious (which is also one of the joys of raising cattle). In the process of raising raw cattle, the most embarrassing situation is a tear in the crotch. Although it is not fatal, it takes a long time to repair. In addition, the breeding cycle of a cow is 1 to 3 years (1 year for masters, more than 3 years for beginners). During this period, the most unbearable thing is to wear the same pair of pants frequently and monotonously, without changing them. It can be described as torture to distinguish between cold winter and scorching heat (actually there will be varying degrees of fading during this period, and each stage has its own charm).

◆ Key points of raising cattle

There are two points that need to be paid attention to when raising cattle: 1. Desizing, 2. Fabric.

Due to the limitations of the specifications of old-fashioned looms, the total length of raw oxen before desizing and shrinking is generally 116CM-125CM. In addition, the pants themselves are completely covered with slurry, and the version is very exaggerated and shocking. Denim that has undergone desizing treatment cannot feel its own cotton texture at all. More importantly, only after desizing and shrinking treatment can the true shape of pants be revealed.

▲The aurochs we often see look like this. The shape is huge, and the real thing is even more thunderous.

I strongly recommend beginners to buy Guan Tuo OW! Desizing is not difficult, but it requires a lot of experience. Just looking at the information is almost 100% unsatisfactory.

▲Resolute710 hosted by Lin Fangheng is Guantuo (official desizing) OW

Note: It has not been desizing and shrinking (UNWASH) and is called UW. Official desizing treatment (ONEWASH) is performed, which is called OW.

Now when it comes to fabrics, raw denim is usually made of 100% pure cotton, and the type of cotton used depends on the denim market’s judgment on the grade of raw denim.

Generally speaking, most domestically produced raw cattle use Xinjiang long-staple cotton, while some higher-priced foreign brands use Zimbabwean cotton. The biggest advantage of Zimbabwe cotton (but its disadvantage in other fields) is that it has insufficient clarity, which causes it to yellow easily and is inherently retro. This kind of cottonThe annual output is not high so the price is not cheap.

· Recommended Brands

Here I recommend friends who are trying to raise raw beef for the first time to choose UNIQLO raw beef. The price is beautiful and it has everything you need.

▲Price is RMB 299

LEVI’S 501 is a little more expensive, but it is still an excellent entry-level model.

▲The price is 799 yuan, and overseas shopping is about 500 yuan.

Friends with certain experience can choose Momotaro MOMOTARO.

The development effect is amazing, but it takes a little longer to develop.

◆ Washed

The so-called washed tannins, the original understanding is “artificially polished raw cows in a state of cultivation”.

▲LEVI’S washed series

Regarding washing, I have a short story to share with you. I believe you will have a better understanding of washing after reading it. ,

Nudie

The official mending store of Jeans Australia received a customer, Lee. He was a stonemason in Australia who wore the same jeans for nine months straight at his daily job as a stonemason. It turns out that hard labor is an excellent way to raise cattle. Lee needs to bend his knees frequently and carry stones, which will leave marks. In addition, the dirty environment will add a charming erosion characteristic to the pants.

After several hours of professional work by Nudie Jeans’ repair experts, these jeans were perfectly repaired and were officially purchased and sealed by Nudie Jeans. The official washing designer based on the pants sample, Design the most perfect and most similar replicas and sell them in bulk. (Real case)

Note: Nudie Jeans originated from Nordic Sweden. After its establishment in 2001, its sales exceeded one million within five years, which is a miracle in the industry. Its denim products are exemplary and its concept is novel and unique. It is also environmentally friendly and is recommended to friends who like it.

Washed denim is comfortable to wear and has a short running-in period, but its shortcomings are also obvious. Artificial washing and distressing are not as natural as those of original denim. Although I also hope to raise a good cow, I have no choice but not to be an outdoor manual worker, nor can I accept the washing method of once a year, let alone the monotony of wearing only one pair of pants every day, so I can only give up and settle for the second best. Comfortable finished wash.

For most urban office workers, washing is also a good choice.

· Recommended brands

The price of washed products is higher. If you just want to wear a style, I recommend Zara. The quality is acceptable and the style is generous, so you can wear it for a few years.

▲ Priced at RMB 259

Lee’s low-waist slim-fit jeans are comfortable to wear, wash naturally and have moderate holes. The price is reasonable and very suitable for daily wear. , age-reducing and youthful, but the only drawback is that it is not 100% pure cotton.

▲Price is RMB 799

For friends who are pursuing the level of “washed collections”, I recommend the Japanese trendy brand Neighborhood, which is personally operated by professional washers from all over the world. I purchased century-old jeans for pattern making, and the effect is great. It’s worth a try, and even more worth collecting.

▲The selling price is not less than 2,000 yuan

Note: The price of washing is relatively high, and there is a common situation of “everything goes to each eye”. If the economy allows, Just purchase 1-2 excellent works a year.

◆ The old rules are written at the end

It is human nature to like the new and dislike the old, and letting nature take its course is the way of life. Worrying too much will always make you tired, and raising cattle must also have this With this mentality, wear whatever you want, don’t be too deliberate. No matter how you develop it, it has its own beauty.

In the past, people wore cows because they were wear-resistant and could be worn for hard work. Nowadays, people wear cows because of fashion, convenience, or because they love cows. Some people say that peeling off denim is youth, but I think it is a process of evolution. It is you and the denim that are transforming together, becoming a Better One.

Thank you friends for reading!