What’s the score?
The “绫” of Lingluo silk and satin
“绫” ranks first.
It is based on twill texture and can be divided into plain damask and grain damask. Plain damask is a single twill or changing twill fabric, while grain damask is a single layer of dark pattern fabric on a twill ground. It appeared earlier in the development of silk in my country and can be traced back to at least the Shang Dynasty in the 16th century BC.
The Tang Dynasty’s Dabaobao pattern damask (sourced from the China Silk Museum)
The damask was popular in the Tang Dynasty. Among them, Liao Ling is the most famous. The silk damask has fine texture and gorgeous writing. It was produced in Yue and was used as a tribute in the Tang Dynasty. The official uniforms worn by officials in the Tang Dynasty were made of different grades of silk.
Bai Juyi created the famous poem “Liao Ling” specifically for it. “The colorful and wonderful words are reflected in each other, and you can see the flowers when you turn. “Uncertain” means that if you look at Liao Ling from different angles, you will see different wonderful works. This is not an exaggeration. “Zizhi Tongjian” recorded in the second year of Emperor Zhongzong’s Jinglong reign of the Tang Dynasty records that Princess Anle “had a woven skirt worth 100 million. The flowers and paintings of birds and animals are all like millet grains. Looking directly, looking aside, the sun and the shadow “, each one is of the same color”, which can be proved by reference to this.
The “Luo” of Lingluo silk and satin
Luo uses a twisted warp structure to form an obvious twisted warp. Silk fabric, as follows:
Luo had already appeared in the Shang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, Yue Luo in Zhejiang and Dansi Luo in Sichuan All are very famous. The monofilament appears to have evenly spaced holes – later called yarn. The gauze holes are ventilated and cool, making it comfortable and cool to wear. It is suitable for making summer clothing, embroidery blanks and decorations.
Zhuanghua leno fabrics in the Yuan Dynasty
The production of leno fabrics reached its historical peak in the Song Dynasty. In the hot summer, especially in the south, Luo becomes the most commonly used high-grade silk fabric in people’s daily life. Its Luo structure includes single warp, three warp, four warp twisting without flowers, as well as various types of flower Luo with plain and twill flowers. The best one is the four-warp gauze. The weaving technology of this gauze fabric has long been lost and has become a historical mystery of Chinese silk technology.
