Because the change of sleeve shape is based on the armhole, we first introduce two armholes commonly used in daily life.
Picture 1 shows the structure of a round armhole, which is designed based on the shape of the human body’s arms and armpits. It creates a sense of dignity and rigor. Most suits, etc. use this kind of armholes.
Picture 1
Picture 2 shows raglan sleeves. This kind of armhole only serves as the dividing line between the body and sleeves. You can set any part of the body arbitrarily. It is borrowed from sleeves. This type of armhole is often used in daily life, such as casual wear and sportswear.
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Here we learn about several sleeve styles.
1. One-piece sleeves. One-piece sleeve clothing is customarily called Chinese sleeves. Figure 3 is the style diagram of the one-piece sleeves. Figure 4 is its structure diagram. We talked about the prototype of the top earlier. On the prototype, draw a straight line from the vertex of the rib seam to the cuff, which is the thickness of the sleeve. Since the sleeve shoulder is integrally connected with the body, we adjust the neckline as shown in the figure.
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2. Flat sleeves, flat sleeves are also called shirt sleeves. The most commonly used one-piece sleeves can also be two-piece sleeves. Figure 5 is 45 degrees. The structural diagram of the angle is the best angle in the flat sleeve Chinese style and is more commonly used. The larger the angle, the deeper the sleeves and the thinner the sleeves. On the contrary, the smaller the angle, the shallower the sleeves and the fatter the sleeves. They are easy to wear and move around, but they all express different aesthetics.
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3. Raglan sleeves, Figure 6 is a one-sleeve raglan sleeve style diagram, Figure 7 is its structure diagram, when making the pattern, first cut the base sample Sew the front and back shoulders together, and then connect the shoulder collar point and the rotator cuff point with a straight line as the sleeve center line as shown in the figure. The dividing line between the sleeves and the body can be divided into various shapes at will.
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4. Puff sleeves. Puff sleeves are made by increasing the height of the sleeve and gathering the pleats, as shown in Figure 8. This is the style picture of puff sleeves. As shown in Figure 9, just cut the sleeve base and sleeve mountain and release the required height and pleat amount.
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5. Bell sleeves, Figure 10 is the style diagram of bell sleeves, the pattern should be made according to the structure Figure 10 As shown in Figure 1, cut the basic sleeve pattern and unfold it as shown in Figure 12.
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We will often change the structure of the above sleeves used.
