Column: Florence (Special Writer)
2010 Spring and Summer Fashion Week – Throw away your bottoms!
Even if you accept the “skirt length reality”, the reality you cannot admit is still in the long term: with the economic prosperity and development since the millennium, skirt length cannot be shorter, so why don’t you just stop wearing bottoms?
Looking at the popularity of the broad shoulders of the 1980s, I pulled out those old-fashioned clothes from the closet and put them on to play retro. One day skinny jeans are in fashion, the next day I find skinny leggings to replace my pants, and the day after tomorrow I don’t wear them anymore. More than a hundred years ago, women gradually gave up on complicated bustles and heavy petticoats. As the economy developed and science and technology advanced, women also continued to strive for more freedom. To restrain themselves, they first had to restrain their legs and waist, so This leads to this century-old evolution history of skirt length that has made people laugh or cry until now, or it can also be called the evolution history of pantsless suits.
1910’s: Ankle-length skirts (ballet skirts)
Keywords: Edwardian style, Paulette ankle-length skirts and court robes There is no such thing as “less is more” in fashion.
During the reign of Edward III in England from 1901 to 1910, the Edwardian style was a luxurious style that was popular at the time, with hourglass shapes, corsets and lilies. It consists of long skirt. In addition, the French design master Paul Poiret, a generation of “rulers of the fashion world”, tends to design skirts with smooth lines. He is inspired by the style of the French cabinet period and Western style, and also covers the designer’s own life. Gorgeous style of work environment. In 1912, he even designed an extreme skirt with a narrow hem, ankle-length skirt and wider hips. The wearer could not even sell the three-inch skirt, which was the smash hit “stagger”. skirt”. Paulette advocated Western aesthetics and changed the restrained lines that were exaggerated in the 19th century. The details of the gorgeous Russian palace, the Persian-style clothes and the loose and comfortable long skirts were deeply loved by the aristocrats and fashionable men of the time.
1920’s: midi skirt
Keywords: unisex trend, Flappers’ loose low-waisted one-piece skirt, Coco Chanel (Suit, “Less is More”, Little Black Dress)
After World War I, women’s clothing underwent revolutionary changes, and feminist activities were one of the main influencing factors. The emergence of a new group of increasingly professional women has prompted the emergence of professional attire. People no longer need tight clothing that distorts the body and begin to reject designs that emphasize female features. Instead, they need more leg freedom. The result was complex, loose-fitting shift dresses and shift skirts. Chanel suits with complex designs also emerged, and the classic little black dress also began. Compared with the day wear, the evening wear part was influenced by the appearance of Flappers (young men with short hair, short skirts, makeup, and who often appeared in jazz parties) in the “quiet 20’s”, decorated with pearls, sequins, and tassels. The loose, low-waisted one-piece short skirt became popular for a time.
1930’s: shin-length skirt (skirt length reaching the middle of the calf)
Keywords: slender figure, Elsa· The innovation of Elsa Schiaparelli
With the detailed segmentation of women’s wardrobe to adapt to different occasions, such as city or suburbs, cocktail reception or informal party, sports activities, etc., this Women’s skirts in this period were often made of drapey fabrics and were calf-length, with a normal waistline, narrowed hips, and expanded hems. Through the ingenious use of bias cutting, hanging, and wrapping around general lines, the waistline returns to its original position. Although the economy was prosperous, the 1930s was a time when everyone was eager for innovation. The design comparable to Chanel in the 1920s was undoubtedly the design of the Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli. She always conquered everyone by copying the same pattern. In the 1930s, she In the early days, the focus of fashion was moved from the waist and hips to the shoulders. The widened shoulder pads visually narrowed the waist and abdomen lines. This kind of women’s clothing inspired by the London Guards uniforms was also featured in fashion magazines at the time. Named Schiaparelli’s “imaginative invention”.
1940’s: Knee-length skirt
Keywords: World War II, applicability, Dior “NEW LOOK (New Style)”, pencil skirt
The abundance of materials during World War II indirectly affected the clothing industry and also affected the length of women’s skirts. In an era when clothing demand was in limited supply, styles were naturally short and small, with corresponding rules for the number of pleats, sleeves, and belt widths. Skirts were knee-length and cut very narrowly. Suits with strong practicality were popular. UntilLater in 1947, high-end fashion revived in Paris. People wanted to wear beautiful clothes again, so Dior launched the “NEW LOOK”: calf-length, rounded skirt hem, and rounded top shoulders, which fully demonstrated the beautiful female figure. . In addition, perhaps due to the rules of narrow skirts during World War II, more slender and narrow pencil skirts became popular.
Next page: 1950’s: short skirts, 1960’s: mini skirts
(Source of this article: Fifth Xiaodao She Shang Zhi)
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